These easy-to-make traps catch hundreds of nuisance flies in a matter of days! Get rid of these annoying insect that bug your kids, your pets and your arduously-grown garden plants – veggies or fruits, whatever!
You can make your own fly traps in a few minutes by only using a jar or plastic bottle, a piece of black plastic, a piece of string and bait, such as raw fish or mince in water.
Flies are positively phototropic, which means they are attracted to the light. So, you can use their natural predisposition as a weapon against them when you make the traps.
What you should know about flies and flies’ bites:
What is a fly? While most winged insects have 4 wings, flies have only 2 wings. A fly has mouthparts designed to suck up liquids and for piercing if the fly is one that bites other animals.
Nearly every human has been bitten by a fly of one sort or another. Though there are many types of biting flies, mosquitoes “account” for most of the biting attacks. This fact sheet focuses on other types of biting flies. For information about mosquitoes, see Mosquitoes and Disease at http://www.idph.state.il.us/envhealth/entpestfshts.htm
Just like mosquitoes, biting flies locate humans or animals by sensing certain substances, including the carbon dioxide and moisture in exhaled breath, dark colors and movement, warmth and perspiration.
Once a suitable “host” is located, a biting fly inserts its piercing mouthparts, lacerates the skin, then injects its anticoagulant-containing saliva to keep the blood flowing. In sensitive individuals, the fly’s saliva can trigger life-threatening allergic reactions.
Biting flies transmit debilitating diseases to millions of people worldwide! Sand flies (Psychodidae) transmit sand fly fever, bartonellosis and leischmaniasis in many parts of the world. In the United States, one deer fly species (Chrysops discalis) can transmit tularemia.
Biting midges (Ceratopogonidae) transmit a variety of diseases and, in the U.S., infect livestock with the blue tongue virus. In addition, the bites of black flies (Simuliidae), horse flies (Tabanidae), and stable flies (Stomoxys calcitrans) can produce severe allergic reactions.
Area-wide control of biting flies can be difficult due to the hidden habitats in which the larvae are found, and because some adult biting flies may fly miles from their larval habitats.
Nevertheless, sanitation can be an important method of controlling some biting flies. The larvae of stable flies, for example, develop in piles of decaying hay, straw and other vegetation, including manure containing plant matter.
These potential sites for larval development should be eliminated where practical. Other flies (biting midges and sand flies) may be controlled by disposing of decaying vegetation containing their larvae.
Exclusion also can be employed against biting flies. Stable flies are known to enter structures in search of blood meals, so screens should be installed and maintained on windows and doors.
However, the mesh of standard household screens is not fine enough to keep out the tiniest biting flies and should be replaced with finer mesh where these flies are a problem.
The use of fly paper is limited as it is not as attractive to biting flies as are warm-blooded animals. Fans may be a more useful means to help keep small areas free of flies, especially smaller flies whose flight is affected by air currents.
Similarly, burning candles and torches that produce smoke and air currents may help keep the smaller species away.
Pesticide application is of limited use in controlling biting flies. Ultra-low volume (ULV) treatments (such as “fogging” for mosquitoes) and space sprays of non-residual pesticides are best used where flies are numerous and concentrated in a relatively small area.
These materials kill only on contact and quickly decompose, leaving the treated area unprotected soon after application.
Residual pesticides can be used to spray surfaces where flies are resting, such as vegetation, the walls of barns and the exterior walls of houses. But this method will do little good if flies are not landing on these surfaces.
Another chemical control is larviciding, the application of pesticides designed to kill fly larvae. Formulations containing Bacillus thuringiensis (such as BTI) or growth regulators (such as methoprene) have been widely and successfully used against mosquito larvae living in the stagnant water of ditches, lagoons and catch basins.
BTI has been used successfully against black fly larvae in streams.
Commercial repellents are the ultimate line of defense against biting flies. Those containing the active ingredient DEET (N,N-diethyl-meta-toluamide) or picaridin are among the best ones. While these are effective against mosquitoes, repellents have been found to be less effective against some types of biting flies.
The use of repellents to combat biting flies should be supplemented with other preventive methods, such as avoiding areas inhabited by the flies, avoiding peak biting times, and wearing heavy-duty, light-colored clothing including long-sleeve shirts, long pants and hats.
When black flies, for example, are numerous and unavoidable, netting that covers the head, like the “bee bonnets” used by beekeepers, can provide safe protection. Smaller biting flies, such as biting midges, may become stuck in heavy coatings of lotions or oils applied to skin.
Despite the use of various control methods, control of biting flies is seldom complete. But by supplementing preventive measures with fly management, bites from these vexing pests can be thoroughly avoided!
However, these homemade traps are actually made at NO COST on your part because the items used are used by your family or friends. When it gets filled, just toss it in the trash.
Watch the two video-tutorials at the links below to learn how to get around the bothering flies this hot summer as well as every next summer:
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